What to Cook This Week

Oklahoma onion burgers, recipes for the coming days — and an announcement.

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By Sam Sifton

Good morning. Allie Gassaway, the chef at Fort Defiance in Red Hook, Brooklyn, offers a couple of versions of the Oklahoma onion burger (above) that our J. Kenji López-Alt wrote about a while back. One comes on a potato bun with two beef patties, American cheese, lettuce, onions, pickles and a special sauce like you’d get on a Big Mac, except way better. The other is exactly the same, except with griddled oyster mushrooms in place of the beef.

A third, off-menu possibility: one beef patty, one mushroom. That’s bonkers good and something you should try at home tonight if a visit to coastal Kings County is not in the cards.

Follow Kenji’s recipe for the meat. For the oyster mushrooms, sear them long and hard in a generous amount of oil (or better yet, in the beef fat running off the burgers), and then place it on a cheesed patty. For the special sauce: Use mayonnaise as the base, thin it slightly with cider vinegar, add pickle relish or minced bread-and-butter pickles, a little bit of ketchup and a sprinkle of dried onion, and stir everything around. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, maybe a dash of hot sauce.

With Sunday sorted, we can move to the rest of the week …


I love this mild, flavorful white soondubu jjigae, silken tofu in a seaweedy broth with zucchini and daikon. It’s comforting without being rib-sticking, which is about what I want this time of year.


These soy-butter basted scallops with wilted greens and sesame oil pair fantastically well with rice. Get the grains going before you start to cook the shellfish, because the dish comes together quite quickly and you’ll want to serve it hot.


I like this chicken tortilla soup with charred tomatoes, onion, chiles and garlic for depth. And for a weeknight, I especially like it when I can cook it in the slow cooker all day.


This recipe for stir-fried green beans with pork and chiles is as much about the green beans as it is the pork, but what may stick with you most is the generous splash of rice wine vinegar added at the end for punch. I like it served over rice noodles.


And then you can slide into the weekend with one of the easiest and most flavorful recipes in our collection: Rishia Zimmern’s chicken with shallots. It’s got almost 10,000 five-star ratings!

There are many, many more recipes to cook this week awaiting you on New York Times Cooking — and further inspiration on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube. Yes, it’s true: You need a subscription to access the recipes. Subscriptions are the fuel in our stoves. Please, if you haven’t yet done so, would you please consider subscribing today? Thanks.

If you run into trouble while you’re doing that, or while you’re using our technology, please write for help: [email protected] Someone will get back to you. And you can always write to me: [email protected] I can’t respond to everyone. But I read every letter sent.

Now, it’s nothing to do with 00 flour or canned chickpeas, but here’s Fontaines D.C., “Jackie Down the Line.” Big Irish energy with those lads.

And finally, some housekeeping. I’ve been writing this newsletter four times a week for about seven years. That’s something in the neighborhood of 1,400 newsletters. If my math’s correct, and you’ve been here from the start, that means I’ve told you about more than 10,000 recipes and recommended more than 5,500 pieces of culture and internet ephemera. I’ve coached and sermonized, been bossy and, I hope, understanding. We’ve been through a lot.

It’s time for a break. I’ll be on vacation for the next couple of weeks, and my colleagues Melissa Clark, Priya Krishna and Kim Severson will cover for me while I’m gone.

When I return, it will be to share newsletter duties with Melissa full-time. Melissa is one of my favorite kitchen-dance partners. She’ll write to you on Mondays and Wednesdays. I’ll write on Fridays and Sundays. And we’ll all of us have a very good time. See you on Sept. 9!

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